Explore Hang Mua (Mua Cave) by foot to bask in ancient Vietnamese history
But first how to get there from Hanoi the way we did it or should I say the way we should have done it.
The plan was to head to Huong (Perfume Pagoda) a large Buddhist complex that attracts many pilgrims mainly in the first 3 months of every Lunar year. Although this plan quickly ran out of steam due to our time management and fading light.
We then made the decision to head to Tam Coc where we knew there would be more acommodation options for the night.
Motorbike perched up alongside Karst Mountains near unknown North village in Vietnam
Riding Motorbikes from Hanoi to Tam Coc
To get to Tam Coc from Hanoi you should go via DCT Ha Noi – Ninh Binh/DCT01. The route should take you just under 2 hours travelling along 111km of congestion and chaos. If you have rode motorbikes/scooters before and especially in Asia you should have no issue navigating the seemingly chaotic roads.
However chaotic they seem, there is an apparent order with how everything works. I’ve been riding a bike in Vietnam for four days now and I’d say the top things I’ve learnt so far are:
- Take it slow and easy if you are feeling nervous about the traffic and seemingly blind drivers
- Follow other scooter riders and stick to the far right side of the road (Vietnamese drive on the wrong side of the road)
- If someone beeps at you it is merely out of courtesy to let you know they are beside you and overtaking you
- If there is an extra loud or elongated beep it normally means a car or big truck is behind you and coming through, in this case get as far to the right as possible…they don’t stop
- Did I mention they don’t stop? As a tourist driving on unfamiliar roads always err on the side of caution
A woman drives through the middle of rice fields with Karst Mountains looming in the background
Tam Coc - where we stayed, the beautiful village and chill vibe
Upon arriving to Tam Coc after a long and unsuccessful day but ultimately rewarding one, we arrived in Tam Coc looking for a place to stay.
We found Tam Coc Mountain Bungalow on Hostelworld and arrived unannounced, lucky they had room for two stray backpackers. One thing about Vietnam that backpackers love is that it is super cheap, this one costing $10aud for a bed in a dorm in a beautiful hostel set amongst the mountains.
Tam Coc is making a name for itself as a bit of a hippie place full of vegetarian and vegan options and chill out bars that cater for a laidback lifestyle outside of the big cities. In fact I have seen it referenced as the Vietnamese Nimbin which my fellow Australians would be well aware of. However as nice as this reference is the Vietnamese version is way different and is something I would take with a grain of salt.
Right down the road from Mountain Bungalow is Bich Dong Pagoda (pictured with the woman in front below). The pagoda has a rich history and was built in 1428 under the reign of Ly Thao To and was rediscovered in 1708 by two Buddhist monks called Tri Kien and Tri The.
The pagoda as I found out opens at 7am, as I was there earlier the gate was closed and I was greeted by the friendly dog who would spin around in circles, crouch and bark at me loudly as I approached closer. At this time the monks were probably meditating but as I sufficiently pissed off the dog one monk came out to investigate what was the matter. I exchanged an awkward wave and went on my merry way..sorry for disturbing the peace!
Tam Coc to Hang Mua - The thing to do in Ninh Binh
Upon arriving to the base of the mountain you will quickly understand that this is the thing to do in the area and for good reason.
Hang Mua has a fascinating history and provides panoramic views of the rice terraces and surrounding mountain ranges, though the journey up to the top won’t be without a sweat. Some 486 steps will have you dripping in sweat, especially if you travel between January and September (rainy season). The weather is hot, humid and sticky, no matter how fit you are, you will not be immune to the sweat.
This region is home to the ancient capital of Hoa Lu which used to be the Ancient Capital of Vietnam during the reign of the Dai Co Viet in the 10th century, among many other temples and places of worship here. The region is strongly influenced by these early years of occupation during the 10th century, as well with other temples constructed in the 17th century most notably Dinh Tien Hoang and Le Hoan Temple which pay homage to the temples of many years earlier.
Hang Mua is only 8km or 15-20 minutes from Tam Coc depending on where you are staying and should definitely be included in your itinerary if you are in the local region.
The entrance fee to Hang Mua is 100k vnd ($6.50aud).
Vietnamese flags are everywhere in Vietnam, at Hang Mua this is no exeption
Other things to consider
- Arrive early or later in the day to avoid the relentless stream of crowds (open from 6am-7pm everyday) especially important if you want to get nice sunrise and sunset photos
- Parking is free inside of Mua Cave Ecolodge
- Ride your bikes or catch a taxi to and from the cave, we tried taking a Grab taxi from the base of the caves and they got told to move on by the local transporters, this interaction didn’t seem polite either
- Bring water with you, you will be thirsty and dripping sweat
- You can buy snacks, ice-cream and other supplies at the base of the mountain, this area is well set-up for tourism
- Allow 3-4 hours to get the most of your experience here, there is plenty of things to explore including the Lotus Pond
- You can hire local/authentic attire from the base of the mountain to spice up your photos
- Be prepared to line-up to see and touch Hang Mua Dragon, the lines were too long for us so we skipped out on this one
