Location
Ma Pi Leng pass is one of the those places that you just need to go to. Photos and words can take you there vicariously but nothing compares to the real thing.
At 1500m Ma Pi Leng Pass contains some of the best views and valleys I saw throughout 3 weeks travelling by scooter in the North of Vietnam.
Ma Pi Leng Pass is located in Ha Giang province between the two notable northern cities of Meo Vac and Dong Van. The pass is only 20km long but it is undoubtedly one of the most scenic spots in all of the north.
It is approximately 9 1/2 hours drive from Hanoi and 3 1/2 hours from Ha Giang along highway QL4C or ‘The Happiness Road’ as it is colloquially known.
Motorcyclist have to contend with steep winding roads throuoghout Ha Giang
When to go - weather dependent
The mountain regions in the North of Vietnam are unpredictable and it can rain at any time of the year however the rainy season runs from June to August. During this time the weather can be very hot and humid. Some guides would recommend skipping this season altogether, however if this is your only opportunity to do the loop still take it with both hands just be extra cautious on the roads and plan for more time than you normally would..
Outside of these times, the weather is apparently much more pleasant with December bringing dry and cool temperatures as low as 5-10°C , January – March is the dry season and between April – May the temperatures start to rise but the rainfall should be still minimal.
I was in the region right at the start of September and I experienced the worst weather in my whole trip whilst at Ma Pi Leng. Two days full of overcast mist and rain, which had cleared by the early afternoon. It wasn’t enough to damper my spirits and the time was spent laying back at the homestay.
I woke up with the intention of completing the sky path in the morning, fumbled around looking for the start of the trail and then a kind villager guided me back to Ma Pi Leng Ecolodge, which is where I didn’t want to be nor was I even staying there. The joys of communicating in another language..
Lucky for me the rain started again and I decided to go back to Ma Pi Leng Homestay for breakfast and coffee to wait out the rain.
A rainbow appearing momentarily over the valleys of Ma Pi Leng and Nho Que River
Where to stay - Ma Pi Leng Homestay
I don’t know what it’s like to stay at the ecolodge but I can comment on Ma Pi Leng Homestay. Ma Pi Leng Homestay was my favourite spot to stay on the loop for a number of reasons.
The homestay is set in the core of the Dong Van Plateau with the environment shaped by thousands of years of tectonic and geological shifts. The homestay isn’t the most fancy especially compared to the ecolodge but for the price, your own room and delicious food this place will give you one of the most authentic and best locations on the loop.
Firstly, the homestay is second to none for access to one of the best things to do on the loop; Ma Pi Leng Skypath. It takes about 10-15 minutes walking to get to the start of the trail. In my case, the manager at the homestay Khanh was a legend and dropped me off at the start of the trail.
Secondly, the people! Khanh and his crew were all legends and made for a very hospitable experience. I arrived at sundown around 6:30pm with no booking and without notice they were able to fit me in and cook me a vegetarian meal which was delicious. The banana pancakes the following morning with local honey was also the best westernized breakfast I had on the loop.
Khanh in particular had very good English and we had good chats about life, Buddhism, diets and all things Vietnam.
View from Ma Pi Leng Homestay out to the surrounding valleys
Sky path - Trail notes
As most of the tours stay in Dong Van or Meo Vac not many tourists actually get the chance to stop and complete the sky path. Coupled with the fact there is limited signage, makes this hike a fun mission to even get to. Refer to the AllTrails map and photos below for assistance and ask the team at the homestay if you are still unsure where to go.
The sky path is normally undertaken from north-south and is 3km in length taking 1-2 hours to complete. After my escapade in the morning this was my best option as it is much easier to access from the homestay. Khanh drove me to the start of the trail on a ‘road’ that can best be described as a walking path, which it probably was as it was just big enough for a scooter to fit through.
The trail slowly winds through the valleys towards a small mountain village that is only accessible by foot. Life is at its simplest here, the call of roosters and the sounds of kids playing can be heard as I nudge closer to the village.
The weather starts to threaten again as I march on. The sky path connects two villages on either side of the pass and is still used by villagers today for transportation and agriculture. Crops such as corn grow impressively alongside the cliff edges.
Key features/geology
Past the pagoda visions of the valleys, roads and Nho Que River start to come into view. From the sky path the views are unbeatable passing ‘white cliff’ looking out across the valley. As you walk further along, Tu San canyon in all its glory is revealed. Tu San canyon is the deepest in SE Asia at 700-800m high and 1.7km long. Pitted against the turquoise hues of Nho Que River, its clear that this place is very special. Underwater millions of years ago the retracted waters have left behind a place of natural, cultural and geological significance which was recognized in 2009 by the Ministry of Culture, Sport and Tourism.
The landscapes here are incredible, just as much though are the people who seem to carry the spirit of the land on their shoulders marching up and down these valleys on a daily basis providing food and shelter for their families.
Upon completing the hike a logistical challenge is provided, ‘how to get back to the homestay’. With no official transport options I start walking back along the road blown away by the scenery when a local stops and dinks me all the way to the top of the pass. He drops me off and asks nothing of me, a rarity in Vietnam..
